Since November 2024, facial cosmetics in Europe has entered a significant era of transformation following the decision by the European Union to limit the use of retinol in skincare products. Although commonly interpreted as a ban, this regulation actually sets restrictions on the permitted concentrations of retinol, establishing a limit of 0.3% pure retinol in cosmetic formulas. This mainly affects products that exceed this threshold, but the use of retinol in cosmetics is not completely eliminated, as there are other retinoids that are not subject to this regulation.
Experts in the dermocosmetics field, such as Estefanía Nieto from Medik8 and Raquel González from Byoode, have begun to point out alternatives that are equally effective and less irritating than traditional retinol. Among these, retinaldehyde emerges as a promising option, with the particularity that its effects are 11 times faster than those of traditional retinol and present fewer side effects. Another standout compound is r-Retinoate, which combines properties of retinol and retinoic acid in a single molecule. The latter promises to increase its potency up to eight times without being photosensitive, allowing its use both day and night.
One of the most recent innovations is retinART, a plant-based bio-retinoid extracted from Mediterranean algae, which notably stimulates collagen production. This ingredient has generated great interest in the sector for its ability to offer results similar to those of retinol without the associated risks of its use.
Brands have begun to modify their products to adapt to the new regulations. For example, Byoode’s Retin-A Night serum combines retinal with the new retinART and other nourishing actives, while Medik8’s R-Retinoate is presented as an effective option without the need for an adaptation period, thanks to its gentle formulation that minimizes irritations.
In addition, products are being formulated to allow the safe use of retinol in concentrations below 0.3%. An example of this is Perricone MD’s Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum, which uses encapsulated retinol to reduce irritation and improve skin tolerance.
Oral supplementation with vitamin A is also gaining ground as an interesting alternative. According to Sole Urrutia, nutritional director of Advanced Nutrition Programme, these supplements not only aid in cell renewal but also contribute to tissue rejuvenation, providing a convenient option for those looking to care for their skin from within.
This change in regulation has spurred innovation in the cosmetic sector, offering consumers a wider variety of alternatives for caring for their skin and demonstrating that limiting retinol does not imply a regression in treatment effectiveness, but rather a step towards safer and more effective options.
via: MiMub in Spanish
