Vitamin C has become a prominent player in the field of dermocosmetics, but not all its variants have the same properties or effects on the skin. Experts from companies such as Advanced Nutrition Programme, Byoode, and Perricone MD emphasize the importance of choosing the right derivative, as it can be crucial to the results.
Raquel González, a cosmetologist and founder of Byoode, points out that while vitamin C is essential in any skincare routine, selecting the correct form is crucial. “There are multiple variants of vitamin C, each with its own characteristics and objectives. The choice should be based on the specific concern we want to address,” she explains.
Pure vitamin C, despite its popularity, is not always the ideal option. Due to its high potential for irritation and rapid oxidation, more stable derivatives are preferred. Estefanía Nieto, dermocosmetic director at Medik8, highlights that while all forms of vitamin C act as antioxidants and help reduce spots and improve skin tone, each type has a specific focus.
To combat wrinkles and improve skin firmness, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, also known as Vitamin C Ester, proves to be the most effective option. Mireia Fernández, dermocosmetic head at Perricone MD, mentions that its lipid structure facilitates penetration into the skin barrier, allowing for cellular-level work that helps firm and minimize wrinkles.
When it comes to dark spots, ethyl ascorbic acid emerges as the most competent derivative. Patricia Garín, dermocosmetic director at Boutijour, describes that this variant acts similarly to other lightening agents, such as kojic acid, by reducing melanin production and enhancing skin brightness.
It’s important to note that not all skin types respond similarly to vitamin C. Those who experience adverse effects, such as breakouts or redness, may benefit from gentler derivatives and sebum-regulating options, such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Ascorbyl Glucoside, which are ideal for oily or sensitive skin.
Among the standout products on the market are C-Tetra Advanced by Medik8, a serum that incorporates 20% stabilized vitamin C and combines antioxidants, providing brightness without irritation. The Photo-Brightening Moisturizer from Perricone MD is also noteworthy, as it unifies skin tone and offers SPF30 protection.
For those looking to reduce dark spots, Super C Ferulic by Medik8 and CCC + Ferulic Brightening Complex by Perricone MD are recommended, while Brightening Sprouts Ecstasy from Byoode is perfect for those with vitamin C intolerance, thanks to its blend of soothing derivatives.
In summary, vitamin C is a versatile component in skincare, but its selection should be tailored to individual needs to achieve the best results.
Source: MiMub in Spanish
